Nîmes for a Roman holiday

The capital of the Gard has 2000 years of history and is still young

What have the Romans ever done for us? Well lots of things apparently but no-one mentioned the autoroutes. Driving to Nîmes on the A9, signs helpfully tell me that I’m following the Via Domitia.

Two thousand years ago, this was the main road from Italy to Spain. Surrounded by trucks from Milan and Barcelona, I see that not much has changed. Oddly, there are no chariots.

The Romans would eventually be seen off by the Vandals in the 5th century but around Nîmes they remain ever present in spirit. The centre of the town is blessed with a number of buildings from the period, notable the largely intact amphitheatre.

1 Amphitheatre at Nîmes Photo: The amphitheatre in Nîmes is still used - today's gladiators are actors

Over 130 metres across, this venue is still used today for concerts and spectaculars, including gladiatorial combat. These are only demonstrations – French law takes a dim view of people hacking each other to death.

At Pentecost and in September, it becomes the Arènes de Nîmes, a bullring during a festival to celebrate the end of the grape harvest, the vendange.

Nearby is the Maison Carrée, the only complete temple from the Roman period. Based on the Temple of Apollo in Rome, Emperor Augustus dedicated it to his grandsons Lucius Caesar and Caius Julius Caesar, he of the Ides of March fame.

Maison Carré at Nîmes Photo: Maison Carrée, the only complete Roman temple

Directly opposite is Nîmes cathedral, dedicated to Notre Dame and Saint Castor. Although Roman in origin, this one dates from the 18th century.

Cathedral at Nîmes Photo: The Cathedral of Notre Dame and Saint Castor

Fifteen minutes’ walk to the north, the Tour Magne stands on a hill above a cascade of gardens, the Jardins de la Fontaine. The tower started life in the 3rd century BC but our Roman friends added to it. It’s function isn’t quite clear but its position suggests that it was a watch or signaling tower.

Tour Magne at Nîmes Photo: The Tour Magne was probably a watchtower or signalling station

Nîmes isn’t all antique. There is a charming town centre with many picturesque shopping streets and open squares lined with cafés and restaurants. What better way to relax after all that culture?

Cafés in Nîmes Photo: No town in southern France would be complete without its café terraces

Nîmes for a Roman holiday

The capital of the Gard has 2000 years of history and is still young

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