Autumn in France: What to Do and Where to Stay

France in autumn looks as though Monet has turned to a darker palette. Wander along the Loire and you’ll see it: poplars the colour of old gold. You’ll see it, too, in Burgundy, where the vineyards stretch across the hillsides, their vines writhing in great swathes of copper and crimson. Perhaps the wooded valleys of the Dordogne are the most vivid of all, when the mist rises from the hilltop villages and the rooftops are revealed with each degree of new light.

There's great pleasure in seeing the French countryside change with the season; its colours exaggerated to an almost improbable degree. Even the smell of it: damp leaves on forest paths, woodsmoke curling above rooftops. At the markets, the first baskets of cèpes appear, as the harvest brings new vintages into cellars and restaurant menus turn toward richer pleasures.

For travellers who like their holidays with a little more colour, there may be no better time to visit France than autumn. Here are some of our favourite places to experience the changing season, along with ten French villas that make a good case for staying a while.

The Loire Valley

In autumn, the romance of the Loire is everywhere: its famous chateaux, framed by golden trees; the pale stone buildings reflected in the water below long avenues of poplars, a brilliant yellow.

Start at Château de Chenonceau, the magnificent gallery that stretches across the River Cher, before exploring the gardens once tended by Catherine de' Medici and Diane de Poitiers. At Villandry, autumn brings its famous ornamental kitchen garden, laid out in nine geometric squares, filled with colourful cabbages and brilliant orange squash.

The Loire is also excellent cycling country, with the Loire à Vélo route connecting many of its riverside towns. The 15km stretch between Amboise and Montlouis-sur-Loire passes through vineyards, where the grape harvest has recently finished, and nearby Vouvray is known for its Chenin Blanc, produced in both still and sparkling wine. Many cellars are carved directly into the limestone hillsides, and tastings can be arranged with local producers. Back in Amboise, Friday and Sunday mornings bring the market to the riverbank, with cheeses and seasonal produce supplied by the region's farmers.

Where to stay: Le Manoir Richemont

In the countryside south of the Loire Valley, Le Manoir Richemont occupies fourteen hectares of private woodland and fields, with walking paths through the grounds and plenty of space for twelve guests. The traditional country house has six bedrooms, while a separate garden house provides an additional kitchen and living area.

Fifteen minutes away is Richelieu, an extraordinary little town conceived in the seventeenth century by Cardinal Richelieu, chief minister to Louis XIII. Its remarkably symmetrical streets and handsome stone buildings are the work of architect Jacques Lemercier, who was commissioned to create an ideal town befitting the Cardinal's considerable ambitions. Today, the surviving architecture makes for a fascinating afternoon's exploration, especially when followed by a visit to one of the local cafés.

Burgundy

After the vendanges, Burgundy's vineyards begin their remarkable transformation, turning the hills into long, orderly ribbons of gold and rust-red. The precision of this landscape is the work of centuries, its slopes divided into climats, individually named vineyard plots distinguished by their soil and exposure to the sun. So significant is this relationship between geography and winemaking that UNESCO recognised the climats of Burgundy as World Heritage in 2015.

Around Beaune, the Route des Grands Crus passes through Pommard, Volnay and Meursault, villages whose names are more commonly encountered on wine lists than road signs. Vineyard paths lead past old stone walls and small limestone huts once used by winegrowers, and it's possible to arrange tastings at many of the local domaines. The cooler autumn weather makes exploring the countryside on foot appealing, especially with a cellar visit booked for the afternoon.

In Beaune, the medieval Hôtel-Dieu has a fairly sober exterior that gives little indication of the extraordinary glazed-tile roofs concealed within its courtyard. Founded as a hospital for the poor in 1443, it later acquired vineyards through donations, and its wines are still sold at a charity auction every November. The occasion brings wine enthusiasts to town for tastings and celebrations, while the Saturday market fills with local produce. The restaurants, meanwhile, are turning towards the sort of cooking that makes cold weather seem like an excellent development. A plate of œufs en meurette, perhaps, with a glass of Burgundy Pinot Noir.

Where to stay: Domaine du Château

Dating to the late seventeenth century, Domaine du Château sits within twenty acres of rolling Burgundy countryside near Saint-Sernin-du-Plain, with vineyards on the doorstep. The restored manor has retained an original wine press in its main reception room, where a large fireplace and dining table provide an appropriate setting for dinner.

There are six bedrooms across the manor and a neighbouring building, accommodating twelve guests, while the grounds look out over the surrounding valley. Beaune is around 35 minutes away, and the nearby towns of Nolay and Saint-Léger-sur-Dheune provide an easy introduction to the area's markets and wine producers. The house also offers catered gastronomic stays, for anyone who would prefer to leave the cooking to someone else.

Medieval Villages of the Vendée

In the western reaches of France, the medieval village of Vouvant has a history that reads like a French folktale. Legend credits its castle to Mélusine, a mysterious fairy said to have taken the form of a serpent, and the surviving thirteenth-century tower still bears her name. Climb its 122 steps and the village's old stone rooftops spread out below, with the Mervent-Vouvant forest stretching into the distance.

The village is small enough to explore in a morning, although its narrow streets and ancient fortifications deserve more than a hurried circuit. The Romanesque church of Notre-Dame is particularly striking, with an elaborate sculpted entrance, while the surrounding forest offers miles of walking routes through oak and beech woodland. Autumn is a rewarding time to visit, as the trees change colour and the paths fill with fallen leaves. Access to the Mélusine Tower is seasonal, so check its opening dates if you're visiting towards November.

Where to stay: The Tower House

A detached cottage in the grounds of a private château, The Tower House is an appropriate address for anyone taken with Vouvant's medieval history. The three-bedroom home has a private walled garden and, most appealingly, a rooftop terrace set into its own tower, with views across the village and countryside.

Vouvant's bakery, restaurants and small shops are only a few minutes away on foot making for easy access to traditional village life. There's also something perfectly autumnal about returning to a little stone cottage after a walk through the forest, with a bag of fresh bread and something for supper.

Provence

In the Luberon, autumn brings a new richness to an already colourful landscape. Around Gordes and Bonnieux, the vineyards turn red beneath pale-stone villages, while Virginia creeper begins its annual takeover of old walls. Roussillon hardly needs the season's help, its famous ochre cliffs already a mixture of orange and rust-red. Follow the Sentier des Ocres through the former quarries, where walking paths wind between rock formations and pine trees, before heading back into the village for lunch. The trail remains open into late autumn, though its hours shorten as the days draw in.

The Gorges du Verdon offer something dramatic, great limestone cliffs rising above the turquoise river and wooded slopes turning yellow and russet. October is particularly good for exploring on foot, when the cooler temperatures make the steeper trails more manageable. The 24km Route des Crêtes, near La Palud-sur-Verdon, has around fifteen viewpoints overlooking the canyon, while the famous Blanc-Martel trail takes more ambitious walkers down into the gorge itself. It's a demanding, one-way hike, with unlit tunnels and return transport to organise, so a little planning is essential.

Down on the Mediterranean coast, autumn is one of the best times to explore the Calanques National Park between Marseille and Cassis, when the summer heat has eased. From Cassis, follow the coastal path past Port-Miou to the pine-fringed cove of Port-Pin, a beautiful walk that takes you into the heart of the national park. Summer fire-risk restrictions generally end in September, although it's worth checking local access conditions before setting off.

Where to stay: Maison Aurelia

Maison Aurelia occupies an enviable position within a private wine estate near Roquebrune-sur-Argens, where vineyards extend beyond the gardens and the red rock of the Rocher de Roquebrune dominates the landscape. The period Provençal house has three bedrooms and interiors furnished with French and Scandinavian antiques, while handmade tiles from Salernes and old terracotta floors give the rooms a strong sense of place.

The adjoining winery produces organic wines, with cellar visits and tastings available on the estate. Guests are welcomed with a selection of its wines, which should provide a useful introduction to the local vineyards. The Mediterranean beaches at Saint-Aygulf are around fifteen minutes away, making this an appealing base for combining wine country with the quieter side of the autumn coast.

Where to stay: Maison de la Siagne

On a hillside near Mouans-Sartoux, Maison de la Siagne is an architect-designed villa with four bedrooms and a wraparound terrace overlooking the countryside towards Grasse. The contemporary interiors open onto gardens planted with olive trees, while the town's restaurants are within walking distance.

Grasse, around fifteen minutes away, has been associated with perfumery for centuries, and the jasmine harvest can continue into October. The International Perfume Museum traces the history of this extraordinary local industry, while several perfume houses offer workshops where visitors can learn how fragrances are composed. For those who prefer to spend the afternoon outdoors, Cannes and its Mediterranean beaches are around half an hour from the villa.

The Dordogne and Quercy

Autumn in south-west France is particularly special, especially if you have an interest in food. Across the Dordogne, walnuts are being harvested and cèpes are appearing in the forests, while the markets begin to fill with the ingredients that have made the region's cooking so celebrated.

Sarlat's medieval streets are lined with golden limestone buildings, and on Wednesday and Saturday mornings, the market brings farmers and producers into the old town. Look out for fresh walnuts and walnut oil, along with the region's famous duck dishes, which tend to be served with potatoes cooked in duck fat.

Across the neighbouring Quercy countryside, the landscape opens into pale limestone hills and wooded valleys, with medieval villages appearing above the farmland. Around Montcuq and Lauzerte, the roads wind through orchards and small agricultural hamlets, while the local markets remain an important part of village life. Montcuq's Sunday market is particularly well regarded, with producers filling the streets around the old town throughout the year.

Where to stay: Maison Rouzet

At the end of a quiet country lane near Montcuq, Maison Rouzet is a traditional white Quercy house surrounded by fields and woodland. Its beamed interiors have all the appeal of an old French country home, while the gardens look out across the changing landscape.

The nearby medieval bastide of Lauzerte is a lovely place to explore, with its old stone buildings and elevated position above the countryside. Back at the house, there are two comfortable living rooms, making it a particularly appealing retreat when the evenings begin to draw in.

Where to stay: Pech D'Aze

Near Roquecor, Pech D'Aze is a restored seventeenth-century farmhouse set within twenty acres of private countryside, with paths winding through the grounds and an orchard planted with fig trees. The restoration has preserved the building's terracotta floors and old wooden beams, while a library and sitting room with a fireplace give the house a comfortably lived-in quality.

With two bedrooms, it's particularly well suited to a smaller autumn escape. The nearby village of Roquecor holds a Sunday morning market throughout the year, where local producers sell seasonal vegetables and cheeses. Pick up something for lunch and return to the farmhouse, where the terrace looks out across the surrounding Quercy hills.

The Charente

In the Charente, the grape harvest is only the beginning of the work. Once the grapes have been pressed and fermented, the region's distillers begin the process of turning their white wine into cognac, using traditional copper stills in a practice that has changed remarkably little over the centuries.

Distillation generally takes place between November and March, making late autumn a particularly interesting time to explore the region's vineyards. The wine is distilled twice to produce a clear eau-de-vie, which is then aged in oak barrels for at least two years. Some producers welcome visitors during the distilling season, offering an opportunity to see the process before sampling the finished spirit.

The town of Cognac has several famous houses offering tours and tastings, while the surrounding countryside is scattered with smaller independent producers. Also worth seeking out is Pineau des Charentes, the local aperitif made by combining fresh grape must with cognac eau-de-vie, a tradition with a history of its own.

Where to stay: La Charmante Distillerie

There could hardly be a more appropriate place to stay during the distilling season than La Charmante Distillerie, a beautifully converted former distillery near Challignac. The four-bedroom house retains the generous proportions of its working past, with high ceilings and large glass doors opening onto the gardens.

The restoration has an unexpected sense of style, right down to the Christian Lacroix kitchen cupboards, while outside there's a boules court and a small hill equipped with a telescope for stargazing. Private wine and cognac tastings can also be arranged at the house with a local producer, offering an excellent introduction to the region without even having to leave the grounds.

Occitanie and the Tarn

Occitanie has some of the most remarkable medieval architecture in France, much of it shaped by the region's turbulent history. At Carcassonne, the fortified Cité rises above the surrounding countryside with its extraordinary double ring of defensive walls, while further north in the Tarn, Albi's vast red-brick cathedral tells another story of medieval power.

Built following the Albigensian Crusade, the Cathedral of Sainte-Cécile has the imposing appearance of a fortress, its immense brick walls dominating the city above the River Tarn. The neighbouring Palais de la Berbie, once the bishops' palace, now houses the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum, with an extensive collection devoted to the Albi-born artist.

The surrounding countryside belongs to the vineyards of Gaillac, one of the oldest wine-producing areas in France, where local grapes such as Braucol and Mauzac continue to shape the region's wines. Autumn is an excellent time to visit the small domaines, when the harvest is complete and the vineyard slopes are changing colour. Cordes-sur-Ciel, perched high above the Cérou Valley, is another highlight, with steep medieval streets and old stone houses overlooking the surrounding countryside.

Where to stay: Bastide Saint-Medard

Once the home of a master winemaker, Bastide Saint-Medard occupies a beautiful position among the vineyards near Gaillac. The five-bedroom country house sits within two and a half hectares of private grounds, with views across the surrounding vines and a dining room large enough for twelve people.

The nearby village of Cahuzac-sur-Vère has local amenities, while Cordes-sur-Ciel and Albi make rewarding excursions. There's also a private tennis court for anyone inclined to take advantage of the milder autumn weather, although with the Gaillac vineyards so close, arranging a few tastings may prove equally appealing.

Autumn makes a convincing argument for visiting France. The markets are full of the season's best produce, the countryside has plenty to offer anyone with a good pair of walking shoes, and there's a certain satisfaction in returning to a beautiful French home after a day outdoors. Explore Pure France's collection of holiday homes and find somewhere to make the most of it.